Tuesday, October 26, 2010

The Psychic Foreigner


My employer recently dispatched myself and a crew of Beijing co-workers to document an event in another Chinese city. I always welcome these rare chances to see China outside of Beijing, because, like Forrest Gump's box of chocolates, you never know what you're gonna get.
While the assignment was interesting, the trip to Linyi -- a moderately-sized city of around 1.1 million between Beijing and Shanghai alongside a river about the width of the Mississippi at St. Louis -- was another great example of how someone from overseas must play the part of The Psychic Foreigner.

The Psychic Foreigner is someone who must read the minds of the Chinese who won't tell him or her diddly-squat about what's going on. Because after all, everyone knows it already, since everyone is Chinese. At least, that's what everyone's learned from living in a nation isolated from the rest of the planet for 60 years.

So when we returned to Beijing, our flight landed at a "secondary" airport, not Beijing Capital International. No one with our crew told me about this change in destination -- a small airstrip that looked as if it was way, way out in the sticks -- nor would they let me in on where we were or how close or far it was to Beijing. They just got their bags, got in taxis or buses, and left. This is proof to me that most Chinese are simply still unprepared to have foreigners in their country. Even at an airport, no help. No maps, no guidebooks, no customer information of any kind. You're just supposed to know.
I called my wife, and guess what, she knew exactly where I was and how I could get home. Why my co-workers couldn't do this for me, I still don't understand. I actually found an honest taxi driver who could talk to my wife on the phone and follow instructions to take me to the nearest train station, and I was able to pick up the trail from there.

But like I've said before, the Chinese can't wait until they get all the pandas back, so they can close off the country again, for good.

Music Video Madness


My initial plan for living in China had everything to do with keeping in touch via internet. Sadly, I was too stupid to understand that China was one of those countries that does not view the internet as its friend. I fell victim to all those foreign correspondent knuckleheads who could only write columns about how amazingly wired this nation was. But within a year of the Beijing Olympics, links to foreign-based social networks were a thing of the past. YouTube and Facebook disappeared, never to return to China. Google was put under seige, and finally gave in to censorship demands. It is very inexpensive to get online, but you must accept that your freedom to surf is extremely limited.

But I still get most of my news from the internet, and China's equivalent of YouTube really comes up with about 75% of the video stuff that I'd see in the U-S. For example, I can see the video of what is said to be the most popular song on American radio, something called "Whip My Hair" by 9-year old Willow Smith, daughter of actor Will Smith. The former Fresh Prince and his equally-fresh kids are highly popular in China, yet this is a video you'd think the Chinese would not want to people to see over here. As if it was not troubling enough to have a 9-year old wearing heavy makeup, joining her classmates in throwing their braided hair around, there's the English lyrics (I think she's says she's going to "whip it hard" at one point) which will undoubtedly soon be heard on the kids' cell phone ringtones all over Beijing. Plus, just consider the words "whip it" and pop music combined. Remember, the last time that happened on the radio was when the Dazz Band's R & B "Whip It" joined Devo's punk "Whip It" around 1980. Admit it, 9-year-old schoolchildren and "whip it" should not be mentioned in the same sentence unless you are talking about the return of corporal punishment.


Which they never, ever do in China, of course.


Um, talk about it, I mean. Oh, never mind.